Sopara stupa and Chakreshwar Mahadev Mandir visit at Nalasopara.
Even though I was born and bought up in Borivali, As a child Nalasopara was always a far away suburb on western railway after Borivali and I don't remember ever visiting it. Over the years kept reading about real estate activities booming first in Mira- Bhayander area and then in Vasai - Nalasopara - Virar belt. Then few years back, read interesting stories about Buddhist stupa being found during excavation and it was a historical site also the fact that it was called SOPARA and was a flourishing port in ancient times. All this reading and listening, aroused curiosity about the place but never had chance to visit until last Sunday. Just a casual talk with Dr Ajay and we decided to visit few attractions in Nalasopara. It was my first visit and today while writing this blog, I am still at awe at what a truly magnificent place it is which I had missed for so many years !!!
History of Nalasopara : Known by different names Sopara, Soparaka, Shurparaka. It was largest township on India's west coast and one of the chief ports of ancient India to trade with Mesopotamia, Greece, Rome, Eastern Africa, Arabia etc. The ancient port was also the capital of Aparanta. Literary, archaeological and epigrahic evidence suggest that it was a flourishing port during Ashokan period (3rd century B.C). Buddhist stupa, relics and inscriptions from 8th and 9th century is also evidence of importance of the place. Sopara or Shurparaka finds mention in the Mahabharata (1400 B.C.) as a very holy place that the Pandavas rested enroute from Gokarn in north Kanara to Prabha or Verval in Kathiawad. It is even suggested that Sopara may be the legendary Ophir mentioned in the Bible. In 1882 Pandit Bhagvanlal undertook excavation of a mound in Sopara and ruins of stupa were found. The mound which is about 65 yards Around the base, rises about 17 feet with steps from the eastern side.From the center of the stupa (inside a brick built chamber) a large stone coffer was excavated which contained eight bronze images of Maitreya Buddha which belong to the 8th-9th century A.D. The coffer contained a relic caskets, numerous gold flowers and fragments of a begging bowl. A silver coin of Gautamiputra Satakarni was also found from the mound. The sculptures lying around the mound and also found in nearby areas also suggest that it could also be of temple intended of Shaiva shrine which was unfinished.
Our visit : On reaching Nalasopara by train, Bimal, Ajay and me reached the bus stand on west side. We were lucky that ST bus was standing and we got into it. The bus going to Kalamb or Rajori beach would drop you just outside the stupa complex. The stupa is located at Wanda village.
A board indicating the history of stupa lies outside the complex. It says "Sopara was historically called as Shurparaka. About 2500 years ago, a trader named Poorna constructed this Stupa in reverence of Lord Gautam Buddha. The stupa was decorated with carvings made in Sandalwood. This Stupa is identical to the one in Sanchi in Madhyapradesh. The inauguration of this Stupa was done by Lord Gautam Buddha himself. On 1st April 1882, historical investigator Pandit Bhagwandas Indraji started excavations at this site and uncovered a stone treasury containing eight idols of the Buddha, gold ornaments, gold, silver, etc. The great king Ashoka’s kingdom had in all 14 stone tablets in various parts. Of these, the 8th and the 9th tablets were found in Sopara. King Ashoka’s son Prince Mahendra and daughter Sanghamitra had travelled from Bodh Gaya to Sri Lanka with branches of the Bodhi Tree and had passed via Sopara on their journey. Later, Dr. Babasaheb Ambedkar had also visited this site several times. Today this Stupa stands as mute evidence of an era gone by. The site is declared as a protected national site by the Government of India."
In middle of the complex lies the famous mound where the excavation was done. The mound is locally known as Burud Rajacha kot or fort of Basket making king.
The main mound is surrounded by 6 smaller mounds or brick structures.
There is also a pillar which seems to be half buried in the ground which has carved Buddha in meditation.
There are many such stone sculptures lying scattered and unattended in entire complex.
On other side of the mound lies a small statue of Buddha in rectangular compartment and a colored one outside which looks quite out of place among the old relics. Apart from statue of Buddha there are also some other sculptures which have been crudely stuck to a platform with cement rather than neatly arranging and displaying it with respect.
After spending some time at the complex we decided to visit another heritage site nearby called Chakreshwar Mahadev Mandir which is home to most impressive idol of Lord Brahma and some other sculptures displayed in the temple.
The temples of Brahma are rarely erected and there are very few temples of Brahma. The Brahma idol here is a standing sammukha image, wearing a jata-mukuta. Of his three faces which are seen, the middle one only has a beard.The god holds the akshamala and the sruva in the lower and upper right hands, and the kamandalu and the pothi (unbound book) in the lower and upper left hands.He wears a yajnopavita and an udaralandha, besides other ornaments and a long garland reaching below his knees. The tassels of his girdle are shown hanging down in front. On either side of the god appears a female figure carrying a bundle of kusa grass. There is, besides, his vehicle, the swan, on his left, and an attendant on his right. It was by far the most impressive idol I had ever seen.
Here is the original image of the idol when it was found.
The temple is off the main road and opposite Chakreshwar lake or talav as called locally. The temple is reconstructed and is adjacent to Akkalkot Swami math with samadhi of Swami Mayuranand.
The math had wooden beams and pillars typical of small village house. It was closed But placards hung outside gave details of Swami Mayuranand and that he had taken samadhi at very place.
Next to samadhi was a open verandah which was again a small temple and had two beautifully carved sculptures embedded in the wall.
The temple compound wall had a row of stone carvings of different Hindu deity. Legend says that they were all retrieved from the lake, The original temple was destroyed by Portugese who destroyed most of the temples in bassein area after they took it from Sultan Bahadur Shah of Gujarat.
Notable idols in the compound is one of Gajalaxmi - Goddess Laxmi with elephants on her sides. The elephants are depicted as pouring water from their trunks on the Goddess.
Another beautiful idol is that of Hari Hara - a combination of Shiva and Vishnu.
The main temple also has few idols and one that catches the eye is that of a voluptuous lady holding a parrot in the hand. Its a true masterpiece and in good shape.
After having spend some time in the temple, We decided to see the sunset on Kalamb beach.
Taking ST bus for Rajori which drops us at the main road from where its a walk of around 5-7 minutes. Typical village houses with some huge bungalows line the narrow road leading to the beach.There are few beaches in Vasai - Nalasopara belt though not very famous but popular among locals in the area. I was amazed to find that such a beautiful beach is not developed as tourist spot in Mumbai and doesn't get a mention as compared to Juhu / Chowpati / Manori / Gorai beaches which is in heart of Mumbai city.
We sat on tide protection wall built on the beach to prevent the water from entering the houses lined near the beach. Watching sunset and feeling the cool breeze, Happy to have seen the attractions of Nallaspora which had eluded me so many years.
I would request everyone reading this blog to atleast visit once such attractions in our backyard. Hoping to be on trails to some other offbeat attractions in and around Mumbai next time. KEEP READING !!!!
History of Nalasopara : Known by different names Sopara, Soparaka, Shurparaka. It was largest township on India's west coast and one of the chief ports of ancient India to trade with Mesopotamia, Greece, Rome, Eastern Africa, Arabia etc. The ancient port was also the capital of Aparanta. Literary, archaeological and epigrahic evidence suggest that it was a flourishing port during Ashokan period (3rd century B.C). Buddhist stupa, relics and inscriptions from 8th and 9th century is also evidence of importance of the place. Sopara or Shurparaka finds mention in the Mahabharata (1400 B.C.) as a very holy place that the Pandavas rested enroute from Gokarn in north Kanara to Prabha or Verval in Kathiawad. It is even suggested that Sopara may be the legendary Ophir mentioned in the Bible. In 1882 Pandit Bhagvanlal undertook excavation of a mound in Sopara and ruins of stupa were found. The mound which is about 65 yards Around the base, rises about 17 feet with steps from the eastern side.From the center of the stupa (inside a brick built chamber) a large stone coffer was excavated which contained eight bronze images of Maitreya Buddha which belong to the 8th-9th century A.D. The coffer contained a relic caskets, numerous gold flowers and fragments of a begging bowl. A silver coin of Gautamiputra Satakarni was also found from the mound. The sculptures lying around the mound and also found in nearby areas also suggest that it could also be of temple intended of Shaiva shrine which was unfinished.
Our visit : On reaching Nalasopara by train, Bimal, Ajay and me reached the bus stand on west side. We were lucky that ST bus was standing and we got into it. The bus going to Kalamb or Rajori beach would drop you just outside the stupa complex. The stupa is located at Wanda village.
A board indicating the history of stupa lies outside the complex. It says "Sopara was historically called as Shurparaka. About 2500 years ago, a trader named Poorna constructed this Stupa in reverence of Lord Gautam Buddha. The stupa was decorated with carvings made in Sandalwood. This Stupa is identical to the one in Sanchi in Madhyapradesh. The inauguration of this Stupa was done by Lord Gautam Buddha himself. On 1st April 1882, historical investigator Pandit Bhagwandas Indraji started excavations at this site and uncovered a stone treasury containing eight idols of the Buddha, gold ornaments, gold, silver, etc. The great king Ashoka’s kingdom had in all 14 stone tablets in various parts. Of these, the 8th and the 9th tablets were found in Sopara. King Ashoka’s son Prince Mahendra and daughter Sanghamitra had travelled from Bodh Gaya to Sri Lanka with branches of the Bodhi Tree and had passed via Sopara on their journey. Later, Dr. Babasaheb Ambedkar had also visited this site several times. Today this Stupa stands as mute evidence of an era gone by. The site is declared as a protected national site by the Government of India."
In middle of the complex lies the famous mound where the excavation was done. The mound is locally known as Burud Rajacha kot or fort of Basket making king.
The main mound is surrounded by 6 smaller mounds or brick structures.
There is also a pillar which seems to be half buried in the ground which has carved Buddha in meditation.
There are many such stone sculptures lying scattered and unattended in entire complex.
On other side of the mound lies a small statue of Buddha in rectangular compartment and a colored one outside which looks quite out of place among the old relics. Apart from statue of Buddha there are also some other sculptures which have been crudely stuck to a platform with cement rather than neatly arranging and displaying it with respect.
After spending some time at the complex we decided to visit another heritage site nearby called Chakreshwar Mahadev Mandir which is home to most impressive idol of Lord Brahma and some other sculptures displayed in the temple.
The temples of Brahma are rarely erected and there are very few temples of Brahma. The Brahma idol here is a standing sammukha image, wearing a jata-mukuta. Of his three faces which are seen, the middle one only has a beard.The god holds the akshamala and the sruva in the lower and upper right hands, and the kamandalu and the pothi (unbound book) in the lower and upper left hands.He wears a yajnopavita and an udaralandha, besides other ornaments and a long garland reaching below his knees. The tassels of his girdle are shown hanging down in front. On either side of the god appears a female figure carrying a bundle of kusa grass. There is, besides, his vehicle, the swan, on his left, and an attendant on his right. It was by far the most impressive idol I had ever seen.
Here is the original image of the idol when it was found.
The temple is off the main road and opposite Chakreshwar lake or talav as called locally. The temple is reconstructed and is adjacent to Akkalkot Swami math with samadhi of Swami Mayuranand.
The math had wooden beams and pillars typical of small village house. It was closed But placards hung outside gave details of Swami Mayuranand and that he had taken samadhi at very place.
Next to samadhi was a open verandah which was again a small temple and had two beautifully carved sculptures embedded in the wall.
The temple compound wall had a row of stone carvings of different Hindu deity. Legend says that they were all retrieved from the lake, The original temple was destroyed by Portugese who destroyed most of the temples in bassein area after they took it from Sultan Bahadur Shah of Gujarat.
Notable idols in the compound is one of Gajalaxmi - Goddess Laxmi with elephants on her sides. The elephants are depicted as pouring water from their trunks on the Goddess.
Another beautiful idol is that of Hari Hara - a combination of Shiva and Vishnu.
The main temple also has few idols and one that catches the eye is that of a voluptuous lady holding a parrot in the hand. Its a true masterpiece and in good shape.
After having spend some time in the temple, We decided to see the sunset on Kalamb beach.
Taking ST bus for Rajori which drops us at the main road from where its a walk of around 5-7 minutes. Typical village houses with some huge bungalows line the narrow road leading to the beach.There are few beaches in Vasai - Nalasopara belt though not very famous but popular among locals in the area. I was amazed to find that such a beautiful beach is not developed as tourist spot in Mumbai and doesn't get a mention as compared to Juhu / Chowpati / Manori / Gorai beaches which is in heart of Mumbai city.
We sat on tide protection wall built on the beach to prevent the water from entering the houses lined near the beach. Watching sunset and feeling the cool breeze, Happy to have seen the attractions of Nallaspora which had eluded me so many years.
I would request everyone reading this blog to atleast visit once such attractions in our backyard. Hoping to be on trails to some other offbeat attractions in and around Mumbai next time. KEEP READING !!!!
Beautiful descriptions, :)
ReplyDeleteused to go here as a kid with my father when I lived in Nallasopara until 2002. Shame the reconstruction near the temple has taken away its old charm!!
ReplyDeleteThank you for the information. It brought back my childhood memory.
ReplyDeleteI grew up in Nalasopara in 70. Next time send information on Nirmal shiva temple. In 1970 Sopara population was around 10k people. We used make a cricket pitches between samel pada and station. It was all open spacees. Near this temple i used to go place where they made lord Ganesh statue. In 70 the East was not developed yet. The majority of people lived on the west side.
Please send details on Nirmal Shiva temple...As want to have glance at history and a short write up for my community group
DeleteAbove information provided by Nilesh Ramanlal Gandhi. Also send more information on Vasai. I attended the Gujarati school in town and near train station.
ReplyDeleteNice and informative write up
ReplyDelete