Udvada - A sleepy Parsi town where sacred fire never goes out.

UDVADA - This coastal town lies 200kms from Mumbai and around 8kms from NH8. This town is renowned for Zoroastrian Atash Behram or the holy fire which has been burning for over 1250 years. This place of worship is the oldest still functioning example of its kind. Udvada is to Parsis what Mecca is to Muslims, Kashi for Hindus and Vatican for Christians. Not many would be aware that Udvada Atash Behram (Holy fire temple) is one of the nine Atash Behram worldwide (four are in Mumbai, two in Surat, one in Navsari and one in Udvada), The only place outside India is in town of Yazd in central Iran. 

Legend has it that during the Muslims conquest of Iran in 7th century marginalised Zoroastrians fled to Indian sub-continent to preserve their diminishing culture and populace. It is said that they first landed on shore in small beach village of Nargol from where they settled in Sanjan and over the years due to changing political situation moved places and finally landed in Udvada. The journey of Atash Behram is well documented in Zoroastrian information centre in Udvada which is open to all public.

The Journey of Iran Shah Atash Behram holy fire from Sanjan to Udvada timeline is as follows

Sanjan: 669 years

Bahrot caves: 12 years (1393 - 1405 AC)

Vansda forest: 14 years (1405 - 1418 AC)

Navsari: 313 years (1419 - 1732 AC)

Surat: 3 years (1733 - 1736 AC)

Navsari: 5 years (1736-1741 AC)

Valsad: 1 year (1741 - 1742 AC)

Udvada: 257 years (28-10-1742 to till date)

One gentlemen whom we met during our visit to Udvada said that Zoroastrians from across the world including the ones from Yazd and Homuz in Iran make pilgrimage to Udvada even today.

Weekend wanderer's like A & Me wanted to do visit / trek some place on one wintery Sunday. Once you step out of the house then the travel destinations ideas start trickling in your mind so with 2-3 destinations in mind we boarded early morning 5.47am local train. By the time we reached Dahanu it was decided we head to Udvada for Heritage walk and on our  return journey go to Nargol beach via Sanjan before heading home. On reaching Dahanu we took another 45 min train ride in express train to reach Udvada.

Very few express trains stop at Udvada as its a small station but combining with few local trains  between Dahanu & Valsad / Surat, frequency is quiet ok to have well planned travel to Udvada and back in one day. Sadly there aren't any local state transport bus connectivity as informed by a local. The old Udvada town is around 4kms from station but rickshaws are easily available. A little bit of bargain and you can have share-a-rick for as low as Rs 10/- per person for a 15 minute drive. As we walked from the rickshaw stand towards the fire temple we could see old fashioned typical Parsi bungalow's lined one after another. Some crumbling, some new but many had its own old charm.

Though most of these properties are owned by Parsis, They don't stay here and many may have moved to bigger cities like Mumbai or even abroad, Occasionally visiting them once a year or may be on Parsi New Year of Navroze when this sleepy old township regains its hustling & bustling.

Though non Parsi is not allowed to enter the Fire temple but that should not deter you from visiting this place as still there is lot to see and experience in this town. Udvada as they say is epitome of calm & serenity and as we walked we experienced it through almost empty streets and those locked gates of Parsi bungalows. The quietness is so pervasive that even talking & laughing seems to raise the decibel bar. But then the quietness also allows your mind to be creative as we embraced it open arms and enjoyed clicking the old architecture. The entire town is one horse town and completed on foot in flat one hour but still it will want you to continue walking and enjoying its old charm.

Our first stop was seaside front of the town, The black sand beach and brackish murky water was quite unwelcoming. We saw two fisherman mending their fish nets and some kids playing around. But what had us awestruck since we set foot in the town were these old high ceiling, sloped roof bungalows with trademark double porches and it seems few near the seashore were equally charming.

Close by there is one Zoroastrian information centre which showcases everything about Zoroastrianism and even has a miniature replica of Atash Behram and as well the holy fire replica. The information boards all around provided upto date & amazing information about this unique religion, culture & its history. There was so much to read that it may take one more visit here to only read through this interesting information offering. 

The walk around Atash Behram took us back in time. It was built and designed in 1742 by Dinshaw Dorabjee Mistry from Mumbai. The original temple was renovated in 1894 by Lady Wadia. Two giant stone statues guard the main entrance holding the sword close to their chest. These majestic sculptures greet you in most intimidating manner. The Lamassu guard the entrance hall inside the fire temple.Parsis offer sandalwood to keep the holy fire going and there are small shops in abundance around the temple.

But for a foodie this town has lot to offer, there was these hotels around the town which offer Parsi cuisines. As we spoke to one Parsi gentlemen from Mumbai, the town is heaven for non vegetarians and few hotels like Ashishvangh, The Globe have some irresistible delicacies in their menu. I read somewhere that if good food can kill you, then Udvada would have you dead by breakfast and you would have skipped your lunch and dinner.

The hand churned ice-creams at Dastur Baug dharamshala near the fire temple is also not to be missed but unfortunately it was not being available on day of our visit. There is also a Irani bakery run by a Parsi, He has kept the traditional Irani bakery techniques and recipes alive and has classic range of products like cookies, bhatasa, macrooms which are almost sold out on Sundays due to visiting Parsis. In winters you get delicacy called Doodh puff which I read is prepared in a very unique way and sold in mornings. Basically a chilled milk froth prepared by chilling it in earthen pot and left overnight, it is then topped with nutmeg & cardamom. Something which is very Udvada and won't find anywhere else.

Udvada visit is a perfect weekend destination closer to Mumbai and town may be sleepy but has lot to offer in terms of great food and Parsi heritage in every corner. There's lot for a non Parsi to appreciate here if you are a foodie and fascinated with culture and history.

So if do get a chance, don't miss a visit to this unique town.

On our return journey we visited Sanjan which houses the monument thanking the local Hindu ruler Jadi Rana on allowing them to settle at Sanjan. Also close to the monument is buried time capsule with replicas and miniatures of items which exemplify the heritage of Zoroastrian community for future generation. So much from the dying community !!

Nargol shore which is 12kms from Sanjan is beach side village which has few parsi owned bungalows and closed Parsi agiary. Nargol beach is beautiful beach lined with Causarina trees and perfect gateway for spending quiet evenings at the beach side.